July 10, 2007    Day 46

Overdue +1

1:00am

Desert of blueberry muffin mix pan fried in olive oil.  Chuck looked out and for the first time in three weeks we have stars enough to steer by.  It feels like forever since we’ve seen them and they are beautiful.  Boat is steering herself on a course of 30 degrees.  The main remains full and I estimate our speed at 2 – 2.5 knots.  Seas calm with 5 – 8 knots of wind.

11:00am

The boat steered perfectly on course all night.  This morning is nearly the same as yesterday with but with a bit more wind.  It is a bright day with some patchy blue skies directly overhead but still foggy all around.  Breakfast this morning of oatmeal with cranberries and pine nuts.  Temp in the cabin is 66 degrees and the barometer has dropped slightly to 30.1

2:00pm

The fog has lifted and we have a very bright haze on the horizon but not a cloud in sight. Our day tank was nearly empty so we started the water maker and ran it for nearly to two hours.  Jelly fish are still everywhere in abundance and collecting in huge rafts.  Socks are laid out in the cockpit taking advantage of the sunshine.  It truly is a beautiful day.  Winds have increased slightly and we are averaging 3-4 knots.  Noon position shows we have 424 miles to go. 

4:30 pm

Fog closing in again.  Winds have changed direction and NW swells picking up slightly.  We were only able to keep the forward hatch open for a short time today.  Water maker run for 2 ½ hours with the fog closing in temp is getting noticeably cooler.  Lunch of dehydrated corn chowder soup with a can of corn added.  We had an actual sunset this evening.  Knocked off at 8:30 and reefed.  Current heading 60 degrees with the tiller lashed.  Barometer dropped by 1mb a few hours ago but is holding steady.  Supper of pesto spaghetti was very good and a repeat meal with crusty French bread.  Mmmmmm, crusty bread….  It is definitely getting warmer as we are no longer coming below and hiding under the sleeping bag.  With the sunshine this afternoon we were able to dry out all of our socks.  The small things that count big in this life.

Midnight

A perfectly clear night with stars everywhere.  We were treated to a gorgeous sunset which ended with a red sky.  Winds have increased ever so slightly but barometer dropped another milobar.  Seas 3-5 feet and we are taking an occasional slap on the hull,  just a bit lumpy but what a beautiful night.  We had dried apricots and walnuts for dessert along with a cup of hot water.  Bree’s food gets moved around from day to night.  Her night spot is on the counter above the stove.  She is getting braver about passing the doorway and now frequently pokes her head around the canvas for a quick look outside.  Tonight she was eating and we rolled heavily.  She has her full sea legs and bent and crouched to match the roll until the boat resumed it’s normal motion then resumed eating.  Funny to watch.

July 12,  2007    Day 48

Overdue +3

10:00am

Morning brought a very light rain with overcast skies but no fog and no wind.  Seas are flat and calm.  Barometer has dropped again to 29.5, winds have shifted and are now out of the east, temperature in the cabin 64 degrees.  A “calm morning” breakfast of  oatmeal raisin pancakes and will attempt to brew a pot of coffee shortly.  We will have to run the water maker today.

12:30

Clouds have moved in and we are once again surrounded by a dull grey but the skies are clear on the East horizon.  Winds have begun to increase 5-8.  Jelly fish are very light today but we still do a morning sweep of the foredeck to clear away any that came aboard during the night.  Usually find 4-6 depending on the wave action the night before.  Filled Right stove burner with fuel.  I don’t seem to use the left side as much. 

1:40pm

We pulled the main down to check the halyards.  Noticed the topping lift was twisted with main halyard and we wanted to make sure there was no chaffing.  Hauled it back up and shook out the reefs.  Skies are changing fast, thickening and thinning every 20 – 30 minutes.  Barometer remains steady.  Lunch of Penne pasta with canned salmon and a tomato.  Water maker ran for 2:20.  Sun on again, off again all afternoon. 

6:15pm

Temp in cabin is up to 66 degrees, sun is presently shining.  We had a beautiful day of sailing.  Seeing egg like clumps floating by that have something to do with the jellyfish.  I tried to pick one up in using the bucket but no luck.  Chuck found the center part of one in the cockpit this morning.  We both went eewwww before he tossed it overboard.  The ones that we’ve seen floating have things (baby jellies?) hanging off and their center is hard and rubbery with a little white ball on top.

8:30pm

Took three reefs in for the night.  Average speed 2-3 knots with 309 miles to go.  It looks like we might be in for another beautiful sunset tonight. Cumulous clouds look to be thickening but we can see lots of blue in the sky.

July 13,  Day 49

Overdue +4

10:00am

We woke to completely grey overcast and light rain.  Winds have increased to 10-15 coming from the NE.  Barometer has risen slightly and temp in the cabin 64 degrees.  Seas 2-3 foot swell with 1-2 foot wind waves.  Tiller is lashed and the boat is riding easy.  Last night was a beautiful sunset which I watched while making dinner.  We had cornbread cakes with sautéed onions and baked beans.  No desert. 

GPS puts us at 275 miles from Cape Flattery and 39 miles off course making 4-5 knots.  We had loaded oatmeal for breakfast with a dollop of grape jam, I will make coffee in a bit.  The windows are definitely leaking but it’s been hard to pin down exactly where because of all of the moisture. Bree was very playful last night, getting both Chuck and I to play on and off with her for most of the night.

3:30 pm

Skies still grey and overcast with fog coming and going all afternoon.  Seas are still running 3-4 feet and winds remain constant.  We are steering at 30-40 degrees and have not had to touch the tiller all afternoon.  The day has been another relaxing one with Chuck and I reading and discussing barn plans.  Lunch was ½ can of mushroom soup with brown rice, one can of salmon and one can of water chestnuts.  Temp in cabin has risen to 68 degrees, barometer remains steady.  Bree spent the afternoon napping on Chuck’s lap, my lap, the navigation station and the floor.  She seems restless to go out and go for a walk, same as us.

9:00pm

Fog, fog, fog and steady winds.  Three to four foot rollers are coming from SE, winds 10-15.  Barometer is holding steady.  We estimate visibility maybe 300 yards in the fog.  Dinner of spaghetti with pasta sauce.  Chuck and I continue working on plans for the bunkhouse  and are look forward to the day when we can start building.  As relaxing, weird, stressful and exciting this whole trip has been we are slowly seeing the distance tick down and our trip will be soon be over.  Just a few more days of nothing to do but work the boat.  Chuck and I have joked about the sight we‘ll make pulling in with blue jellyfish stuck everywhere and our broken forestay.  Weaving up to the harbor office after fifty something days at sea.  The first thing I need to do is get to a phone to call my mother, sigh, even before a hot shower.  I know how worried she will be.

We hope we can stay in Neah Bay a few days, use their showers, shop for supplies (lamp oil, toilet paper, hot cocoa and crusty bread,  mmmm crusty bread…)  Chuck has been pulling out the charts for the Straight frequently over the last few days and reviewing our point of entry.  The time of day we arrive will be pretty critical.

Tiller still lashed and steering 30 degrees as she has been for the last 36 hours.  Average speed of 3-5 knots, riding easily.  Fog gone and stars are out but they are only visible directly above.  Sigh, winds starting to die again…..

July 14,  2007    Day 50

Overdue +5

Noon

Rain and light fog on the horizon, visibility maybe 1-2 miles.  Boat continued to steer herself throughout the night.  Averaging 2-3 knots with 220 miles to go.  Cranberry walnut pancakes for breakfast, definitely a favorite.  Looks like another day similar to yesterday.  As long as the winds continue to hold there is nothing to do but check outside every 15 minutes or so.  We’ve been getting a lot of reading done and the barn plans are nearly complete.  We discussed the bunkhouse last night but still can’t decide on the dimensions and look.  Temp in cabin is 66 degrees.  Barometer is steady at 29.6.

6:00pm

Day has been overcast, foggy and rainy the whole afternoon.  Visibility is up to maybe five miles making us feel more comfortable.  We are now North of our intended course by 9 miles.  We’ll have to tack in the morning if the winds don’t change back to a Westerly direction.  We should be under 200 miles by 8 this evening.  Lunch of Chili and spaghetti which used our last can of Cattle Drive.  We have only one can of vege chili left.

8:30pm

Evening is finishing up same as the day.  Overcast with no cloud definition, visibility still at or around five miles, and drizzly on and off.  Barometer continues to hold steady.  Ran the water maker for one hour and the battery was showing at 7 volts after.  We will need to run the engine tomorrow if the sun doesn’t make an appearance, bummer.  Dinner of curry tofu with spaghetti topped with a spoonful of mango chutney.  Steering steady at 30 degrees due East.  We really need to be sailing closer to 60 degrees.  We’ll stay on this course until tomorrow morning then get up in the morning and tack. We actually need a compass heading of 150 degrees to sail on our intended course.  Unfortunately this course has us beating more upwind which puts added pressure on the forestay.  Tomorrow we’ll take the jib halyard and tie it off to the forward cleat so the forestay will have some back up.  We  installed 3/16 stainless rigging 8 years ago, the  best you can buy and easily 3 times the size required for our boat but Chuck is still not taking any chances and wants back up just in case.  We will have to get all the rigging surveyed when we get in.  Chuck is extremely disappointed.      

We are also trying to figure what is causing the halyard to chafe at the top of the mast.  Is it is rubbing on a tang or cotter pin or is the sheave itself is worn? Wear-where?

9:00pm

There is just a hint of red sky in the west.  Red sky at night…we’ll take whatever we can get.  I have enough muffin mix to make one more batch of cookies, we’ll finish that off tonight.  From there our treats are down to Altoids, one box of peppermint, spearmint and cinnamon.    Bree is in the middle of her new night time ritual “Scope the Boat”.  She investigates every nook and corner in such a way that she passes over our legs or laps as many times as possible.  She is better entertainment than any TV.  We’ve been taking turns checking out side every 15 minutes. We don’t keep track of who’s turn it is but generally it’s whoever doesn’t have Bree on their lap at the time. We fantasize regularly about washing our wool socks and putting them on right out of the dryer.    We also dream of a nice long hike but are pretty sure it will be a challenge just making it to the Harbor Office.  Fifty plus days at sea and we expect to be pretty wobbly. After sailing on Spike Africa it took me a full week before I didn’t have to hold on to something solid every time I stood still so I wouldn’t pitch over.  After one year of training for a triathlon with  regular workout schedules, swim this day, run that day, five or six days a week.  I had been eating six or seven small meals a day and now we are eating hearty 3 times a day followed by dessert.  Compete one week and begin cruising the next. It’s been a big lifestyle change in a very short period of time. 

10:00pm

Wind has picked up slightly just like last night.  We’ve already taken a couple of large slaps against the hull.

11:30pm

48.12

129.01

The winds picked up and we are on a new heading of 60 degrees with an average speed of 2.5 knots.   Barometer dropped slightly and is now just under 29.5.  There is a light misty rain. Distance remaining 194 miles and we are 16.2 miles off course heading N-NE.  We are too far North of East but our heading is better now than it has been all day.

12:30

July 15,  2007    Day 51

Overdue +6

1:15am

Winds have died, boat has shifted her course to 90 degrees – due East.

10:30am

12:30 

Engine run for one hour and the blue sky is gone, yep, how quickly it changes.

2:30

Warm front seems to have arrived.  Temp in cabin is 72 degrees.  We’ve started peeling off layers but our toes are still cold.  Scattered blue outside with cumulous clouds that look like they could go either way, higher and smaller or lower and thicker which would mean more weather headed our way.  We find ourselves checking the barometer every hour.  Lunch was a can of Van Camps pork and beans and cornmeal cakes.  I made a few extra cakes to have for desert later tonight.  Made some coffee after we were through motoring, Frighteningly enough the coffee is starting to taste o.k…..good thing the trip is nearly over.  With the winds the way they are and our current speed of 3.5.  Chuck estimates we should arrive at Cape Flattery early morning two days from now.

5:30pm

Ran the water maker for 2:20, batteries both still showing good levels.

8:00pm

Supper of pesto spaghetti with artichoke hearts finished just after 7pm.  .  Winds and barometer both holding steady.  Seas 2-3 feet, winds 10-15.  Sky a universal grey with a teaser patch of blue to the NE.  Heading consistent 60-70 degrees true with the tiller lashed and the miles are slowly ticking down.  Thanks Per Brohal for designing such a beautiful and well balanced boat.  Barometer remains steady at 29.5, temperature in the cabin 70 degrees.  Bree as usual found a hiding spot while the motor was running but was out complaining loudly only a few minutes after we shut it off and spent the rest of the afternoon shifting from one napping spot to the next.  This is a far different cat who used to be traumatized for days whenever we started the boat and went out.  Thankfully she has had no further accidents. Chuck and I spent the last two days reading to each other and have finished Moitessier’s book “Around the Horn”.  As is a common theme among cruisers, we have gotten a lot of reading done but made the new discovery of just how much we enjoy reading to each other.

10:00pm

Light rain, light wind and back on a course of 30 degrees.  We will have to tack tomorrow unless the winds change again.  We’ve got the anchor lantern lit tonight as we’ve run out of fuel in the cabin lanterns but it just doesn’t give off the heat or light they do so tomorrow I’ll try to transfer the remaining fuel.  Dessert of leftover cornbread cakes topped with canned strawberries.  Pretty much the last thing in my stores I can make a dessert with.  It was pretty good.  Tomorrow I have to seriously clean the boat and re-stow things to get ready for our arrival.  I have to get the chart table cleared away and make sure everything is available for Chuck to navigate with.  Once we reach a hundred miles the GPS will always be on and the charts and reference material must be ready for use.  The next few days will be a bit more intense.  To this point we’ve worked as a team, but the navigation is Chuck’s job.  I clean and cook and he Captains and navigates.  We are both perfectly happy with our roles.  Barometer has crept up slightly.

July 16,  2007    Day 52

Overdue+7

1:30am

Winds have died completely.  Main sail is flogging badly and Chuck has gone out to attach the vang to reduce wear and tear on the boom.  Not clear enough to see any stars, a damp, wet night.

10:30am

July 17,  2007    Day 53

Overdue +8

11:30am

The day of whales.  We were treated to pilot whales circling the boat in the early hours of the morning.  The water was absolutely flat and tinted with pink from the coming sunrise.  They came quite close on the surface and we could see the white of their bellies and tails flashing directly under the boat.  Oatmeal/raisin pancakes for breakfast, unfortunately the last, we are running out of the good stuff.  While making breakfast I heard a large exhale outside followed by another, the sound of something big.  We had three (humpback?) whales surfacing and diving within a 2-3 hundred foot range of the boat for over an hour.  We checked Charlie’s Charts to reference the dorsal fins.  They might have been Blue Whales but we’re not sure.  We are running the motor for 1-2 hours in the hopes of getting closer to our course and maybe finding some wind.  Just motored by a bright orange piece of plastic and we could see a small fin swimming around it seeming to bump and play with it.

12:00

118 miles to go.  We made 2 miles yesterday.  Motoring against a current so we are only making 5 knots instead of the usual 6.  All I can think of is my mother.  I’m hoping she is watching the weather and realizes there is no wind.  We are still passing by the odd straggler of jelly fish “Hey, where did everybody go?”  Found several skeletons in the sails yesterday.  I’ll try to save a few, they are pretty to look at.  VHF weather is predicting 10 knots Westerly today and tomorrow then increasing to 15 – 25 on Thursday with seven foot seas and lots of rain.  Being that close inshore we won’t be able to heave to and one of us will have to be in the cockpit at all times.  It doesn’t sound too bad but we would much rather be in port by then.

1:30pm

Motor run for 2:10 and still not a breath of air.  Our new position is 110 miles from Cape Flattery and 19.6 miles off course.  We had another whale surface so close Chuck felt the mist from his exhale.  Huge, graceful animals…way cool.  It is so quiet you can hear them surface and breath even though they are a long way off.

3:00pm

Winds have increased slightly out of the E-SE.  Currently making our headway slow and steering 60 – 70 degrees, pretty close to where we want to be.  The fastest we have moved in the last 24 hours.  Had another whale about 20 feet away just below the surface with only the tip of his fin breaking the surface.  Sun is shining and our feet are warm again.  Large cumulous clouds all around and off to the SW they look to be thousands of feet tall.

5:00pm

Light breeze had died again.  With the drier weather the stereo is working again and we have it playing for the first time in weeks.  Water tank finally emptied yesterday after I finished the lunch dishes.  52 days using it only for dishes, not bad.  We’re talking about adding in the 6 gal can but only if we have flat water. Don’t want to lose half of it while trying to put it in.

7:30pm

Just enough wind to keep us from going in circles but no more.  We are making very little headway.  If the wind dies this evening as usual we will put in a few reefs so we can have some peace and quiet, unlike last night.  With the sunshine Bree has become even more active, prowling around in every nook and cranny.  She still refuses to set foot in the cockpit but sits on the top step with her neck craned around looking up at the main as though it might descend and get her at any moment.

8pm

Filled the water tank, flat water made it a piece of cake.

9:30

Sunset, a beautiful finish to a gorgeous, relaxing day.  Barometer holding steady and the cabin temperature is 70 degrees.  105.7 miles to go and 18.7 miles off course, average speed 1.5 knots.  We’ll leave the main up for tonight unless it starts to flog.  We transferred the last 5 gallons of fuel this afternoon as well.  Forward hatch was open all day and boat is noticeably drier.  Hygrometer is ranging from 75 percent during the day to 80 percent at night.  Currently having a cup of coffee.  Sad, it’s starting to taste o.k.   Can’t wait to get in.  Dinner of vege chili with brown rice and mango chutney. That is our last can of chili and the last of the instant brown rice. 

Midnight

103.9 miles to go, 15.6 miles off course, average speed 1 knot.

July 18,  2007    Day 54

Overdue +9

1:30am

Winds died promptly at one o’clock.  Chuck and I were having a cup of coffee waiting for it to happen.  Had the main reefed and were back in the cabin to finish our coffee in 24 minutes (not bad).  Have a feeling it will be another beautiful, calm morning again.  Maybe more whales?  We’ll finish our cups and resume 1 hour watch which worked well last night.

10:00am

Overcast skies once again but we have wind.  Shook the reefs out after breakfast and are moving along at 3-4 knots.  Forecast we received on VHF calls for 30 knot winds to arrive tomorrow evening at the entrance to Juan de Fuca.  We are hoping to be safely tucked into Neah Bay by mid to late morning.  Breakfast of loaded oatmeal made with half oatmeal and half leftover brown rice.  Very good!  Coffee is brewing now.  It’s going to be a long 24 hours but we are to the homestretch with 94 miles to go.

2:00pm

84 miles to go.   We will check in with Tofino Traffic 40 miles outside the entrance to the straight.  We are still being plagued with fluke winds of 5-8 knots.  Overcast, now with a light drizzle.  Barometer down 1mb, temp in cabin 66 degrees.  Lunch of corn chowder with a can of salmon added, definitely a repeat.  Can’t wait to get our teeth into some crusty French bread.  Chuck is swinging into full Captain mode.  This next 24 hours, unfortunately, will be all on his shoulders.  Navigation to this point has been fairly simple.  As of yesterday we are back on the chart.  We will be doing one hour watches again tonight which Bree is taking in stride.  She does her best to help out, alternating between playing with the person awake and curling up beside the person asleep.  Our kingdom for a jib!  None of this would be a problem if we were still able to use it.  Impossible to get the correct point of sail with the main alone.

July 19,  2007    Day 55

Overdue +10

7:00am

Long night, especially for Chuck.  Virtually no wind until after I came on watch around 2:30, then we started making 2-2.5 knots.  Woke Chuck around 5:30.  The winds had shifted and we had an oil tanker a few miles directly in front of us.  Made loaded oatmeal with the last of the oatmeal and raisins, as soon as we were finished we put four rolls into the reef and started to motor.  55 miles to go and we are committed to enter the straight today.  Usually when we run the motor we easily get six knots, this morning, however, we are only making 4.4-5.3.  Not good.  We have 13 hours of running time with the fuel we have and we allowed for 80 miles.  With the slower speed that puts us at 52-55 miles.  Neither of us likes those odds, way to close for comfort.  The only reason why we are pushing so hard is the weather is expected to get pretty hairy for the next few days.  25-30 knot winds blowing directly into the straight and 7-10 foot seas are expected 60 miles out.  Not something we want to sit out  this close to land.  Still unable to sight land even being this close, the weather may have something to do with that.  Heavy rains expected for the next two days as well.  Generally pretty bad conditions.  After a long night Chuck will have an even longer day.  First cup of coffee on the way.

10:00am

40 miles to go, our speed has picked up which is a great relief.  Still unable to spot land but we’re sure it’s there.  Rain has stopped which is also a relief.  Chuck is in a great mood singing show tunes at high volume.  The only one who is not happy is Bree.  At least she does not have her head shoved in a locker but is lying comfortably up forward next to Teddy.  The water is a funny olive green color this morning

Arriving mid afternoon on Day 55 we radioed Big Salmon Resort in Neah Bay but were told there were no vacant moorings available. Fortunately, the Captain of the fishing vessel "Norn" heard the call and was kind enough to escort us through the dense fog into the marina and the empty slip next to his.

We were met at the dock by two Coasties who informed us we had been on their watch list since July 10th.  After a few quick questions verifying the equipment on our boat and a quick check of our paperwork we were handed a signed inspection form and given the all clear.  As soon as the formal paperwork was done one of the coasties pulled his cell phone out of his pocked, handed it to me and said “Call your Mother”.     

After celebrating our arrival with a long hot shower and a pizza (but no beer) we sat down to decide our next move.  We were roughly a month late getting in and had immediate repairs that needed to be made. It was decided Port Angeles would be our next stop where we would enquire about the best place to work on the boat. 

Sorry Bree, looks like we will be motoring the whole way.